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NEGRIL DINE-AROUND  


One of my first pursuits, when I arrive in Jamaica, is to have a delicious plate of the national dish, ackee and salt fish. The ackee fruit (that tastes a lot like eggs when cooked) is not found to any great degree on other islands, so it’s a big treat. In fact, ex-pat Jamaicans will go so far as to eat ackee from a can when they can’t get the real thing!

What’s so great about Jamaican food? Just stop at one of those ubiquitous roadside stands and savor the specialty of the ‘house’ for your answer. Admittedly, you are at a disadvantage if you don’t know the range of treats that are in store for you. So let’s pick on one area of this bountiful island, Negril…the ‘Capital of Casual’…and go native on a dine-around adventure.       

At
Negril Square, grab a snack at Juici Pattie. This is a chain with stores all around the island, and you'll understand why when you taste one of their patties. Choose from beef, chicken, veggie, lobster, shrimp,  meatloaf, and my new favorite, beef and cheese. These delectables come at bargain prices, and are a staple of the school child’s lunch.

The Negril store tops other locations because its neighbor is Devon House I Scream. Yes, the same as
Kingston’s Devon House, selling those creamy delights in cup, cone or sundae. From the 21 flavors, check out Pina Colada and Devon Stout. Tempting baked goods in the display case--rum balls, banana bread, macaroons and gizzadas—set the taste buds to tingling.

Just past
Negril Square on the Sav-la-Mar road is Sweet Spice restaurant. We must stop in because ‘rundown’ is on the breakfast menu. Can’t you just picture yourself in this cozy dining spot, digging into that tasty mackerel concoction with the juice running down your arm? At night, return for a generous plate of oxtail and broad beans. This place won’t hurt your wallet either. Prices range from $5.00 to $15.00, and that includes lobster!



For Negril’s best fresh seafood eatery, head up Norman Manley Boulevard to Cosmo’s Seafood Restaurant & Bar for the best conch around…curried, stewed or in soup. Fish comes fried, steamed and grilled. Cosmo Brown has occupied this beautiful stretch of beach for 30 years, serving lunch and dinner and offering a pleasant spot to spend the day. Besides the inside and outside restaurants, there’s a hamburger and jerk stand, beach bar, lounge chairs…even a gift shop.             

Cosmo’s menu names fried fish and bammy as
Jamaica’s national dish because, as he points out, both ackee and salt fish originated elsewhere. “So I’ve renamed our national dish from foods that are truly Jamaican.” he exclaims proudly.     

Down the road,
Bourbon Beach (formerly known as D’Bus) is a good daytime beach spot as well, with more emphasis on the big, round beach bar. But at night, the jerk center is going full tilt, two bars are kept busy, and on stage you might find anyone from a Negril band to the Fab 5. The local radio station keeps everyone informed on weekly bands. Then it’s party time into the wee hours.

Before you do the late night thing, drop in at Rick’s Café for the traditional sunset ritual.  Sip one of several Red Bull mixtures, a Cliffside Cooler or a Jamaican Viagra. That last one blends stout beer, white rum, rum cream, clear syrup, oatmeal and one egg, topped with chocolate syrup. Are you ready?

When the orange ball starts settling on the horizon and the gong sounds, claim your stool for a Sunset Shot, poured directly into open mouths by a server standing on the bar. In case you care, you’re swallowing
Appleton rum, blue Curacao liqueur, pineapple juice, lime juice and vodka!!! After sampling this concoction, you’d better leave cliff diving to the regular cliff boys and move to the upper deck for Rick’s world-famous surf 'n turf dinner…guaranteed to get your groove back.

About bammy, that other Jamaican staple we mentioned earlier, you can search all over Jamaica, but the best place for fish and bammy with atmosphere is Scott’s Cove, between Sav-la-Mar and Black River. Roadside vendors hawk trays of fried fish smothered in all sorts of extras, from slivers of coconut to that scorching hot little chili pepper, scotch bonnet. Extending all along the roadside are makeshift grills on cut-down oil drums. Firewood is inserted between rocks and set ablaze to fry the specialties and roast ears of corn doused in butter. In the background, colorful fishing boats are lined up on shore, ready to replenish the cooks’ stock.

Further along near
Black River, locals tempt passing motorists with little sacks of brine shrimp, duly spiced and ready to eat. Nobody starves while driving around this island. Instead of wiping your windshield with an oily rag, vendors dangle clusters of geneps picked fresh from the tree, or bags of peanuts, or slices of roasted breadfruit.

This is
Jamaica, the perfect dine-around scene.

www.visitjamaica.com