NEGRIL DINE-AROUND
One
of my first pursuits, when I arrive in Jamaica, is to have a delicious plate of the
national dish, ackee and salt fish. The ackee fruit (that tastes a lot
like eggs when
cooked) is
not found to any great degree on other islands, so it’s a big treat. In
fact,
ex-pat Jamaicans will go so far as to eat ackee from a can when they
can’t get
the real thing!
What’s so great about Jamaican food? Just stop at one of
those ubiquitous roadside stands and savor the specialty of the ‘house’
for
your answer. Admittedly, you are at a disadvantage if you don’t know
the range
of treats that are in store for you. So let’s pick on one area of this
bountiful island, Negril…the ‘Capital of Casual’…and go native on a
dine-around
adventure.
At Negril Square, grab a snack at Juici
Pattie. This is a chain with stores all around the island, and
you'll understand why when you taste one of their patties. Choose from
beef, chicken, veggie, lobster,
shrimp, meatloaf, and my new favorite,
beef and cheese.
These delectables come at bargain prices, and are a staple of the
school
child’s lunch.
The
Negril store tops other locations because its neighbor is Devon
House I Scream. Yes, the same as Kingston’s Devon House, selling those creamy delights
in cup,
cone or sundae. From the 21 flavors, check out Pina Colada and Devon
Stout.
Tempting baked goods in the display case--rum balls, banana bread,
macaroons
and gizzadas—set the taste buds to tingling.
Just
past Negril
Square
on
the Sav-la-Mar road is Sweet Spice
restaurant. We must stop in because ‘rundown’ is on the breakfast menu.
Can’t
you just picture yourself in this cozy dining spot, digging into that
tasty
mackerel concoction with the juice running down your arm? At night,
return for
a generous plate of oxtail and broad beans. This place won’t hurt your
wallet
either. Prices range from $5.00 to $15.00, and that includes lobster!
For Negril’s best fresh seafood eatery, head up Norman Manley Boulevard to Cosmo’s Seafood
Restaurant & Bar for the best conch around…curried, stewed or
in soup. Fish comes
fried,
steamed and grilled. Cosmo Brown has occupied this beautiful stretch of
beach
for 30 years, serving lunch and dinner and offering a pleasant spot to
spend
the day. Besides the inside and outside restaurants, there’s a
hamburger and
jerk stand, beach bar, lounge chairs…even a gift shop.
Cosmo’s menu names fried fish and bammy as Jamaica’s national dish because, as he points out,
both ackee
and salt fish originated elsewhere. “So I’ve renamed our national dish
from
foods that are truly Jamaican.” he exclaims proudly.
Down
the road, Bourbon Beach (formerly known as D’Bus) is a good daytime
beach spot
as well, with more emphasis on the big, round beach bar. But at night,
the jerk center
is going
full tilt, two bars are kept busy, and on stage you might find anyone
from a
Negril band to the Fab 5. The local radio station keeps everyone
informed on
weekly bands. Then it’s party time into the wee hours.
Before
you do the late night thing, drop in at Rick’s
Café for the traditional sunset ritual. Sip
one of several Red Bull mixtures, a
Cliffside Cooler or a Jamaican Viagra. That last one blends stout
beer,
white rum, rum cream, clear syrup, oatmeal and one egg, topped with
chocolate
syrup. Are you ready?
When the orange ball starts settling on the horizon and the gong
sounds,
claim your stool for a Sunset Shot, poured directly into open mouths by
a
server standing on the bar. In case
you care, you’re swallowing Appleton
rum, blue Curacao liqueur, pineapple juice, lime juice and
vodka!!! After
sampling this concoction, you’d better leave cliff diving to the
regular cliff
boys and move to the upper deck for Rick’s world-famous surf 'n turf
dinner…guaranteed to get your groove back.
About bammy, that other Jamaican staple we mentioned
earlier, you can search all over Jamaica, but the best place for fish
and bammy
with atmosphere is Scott’s Cove, between
Sav-la-Mar and
Black River. Roadside vendors hawk trays of fried fish smothered in all
sorts
of extras, from slivers of coconut to that scorching hot little chili
pepper, scotch
bonnet. Extending all along the roadside are makeshift grills on
cut-down oil
drums. Firewood is inserted between rocks and set ablaze to fry the
specialties
and roast ears of corn doused in butter. In the background, colorful
fishing boats are
lined up
on shore, ready to replenish the cooks’ stock.
Further along near Black River, locals tempt passing motorists with little
sacks of brine shrimp,
duly spiced and ready to eat. Nobody starves while driving around this
island.
Instead of wiping your windshield with an oily rag, vendors dangle
clusters of
geneps picked fresh from the tree, or bags of peanuts, or slices of
roasted
breadfruit.
This
is Jamaica, the perfect dine-around scene.
www.visitjamaica.com
|